.jpg)
The fashion industry is often a world of
smoke and mirrors. They use a mix of unsavory methods and glamour to promote
their merchandise. For example, Shell might invite the press to see their model
in person. The model may be wearing recycled polyester (PET), or they could use
cheap cotton to reduce costs.
Increasing volumes of recycled polyester (PET) used in "conscious" fashion collections
Recycled polyester, or rPET, is an
eco-friendly textile made from recycled plastic bottles. These plastic bottles
are collected and exported to China where they are melted down into pellets.
From these pellets, new polyester fibers are extruded and used to make
clothing. Many fashion brands now contract these materials in their
manufacturing process. These recycled fabrics are a sustainable alternative to
virgin polyester and can reduce waste and the environmental impact of the
apparel production process.
Recycling polyester-based textiles reduces
emissions by 50 to 25 percent compared to virgin polyester. However, the amount
of polyester that can be effectively recycled is limited. Most of these
garments end up in landfills, where they shed microfibers.
Recycled polyester is a better alternative
than virgin polyester, and many fashion brands are turning to this fabric to
create more eco-friendly collections. While it is not completely eco-friendly,
it does have many benefits over virgin polyester. For one, it's more durable.
The fabric won't shrink after washing, and it doesn't absorb moisture. And it's
a good insulator, too.
The textile industry has started a campaign
called "The Recycled Polyester Challenge" to encourage fashion brands
to incorporate more recycled polyester into their collections. While many
fashion companies have signed up, not many have linked this initiative with
their own goals for reducing synthetic fibres.
Increasing volumes of cheap cotton used in "conscious" fashion collections
With two thirds of companies reporting
their environmental impact through the Higg Index, it is not surprising to see
more synthetic fibres being used in "conscious" fashion collections.
But the process is not as simple as it sounds. The fibres must first be
separated from the seeds, spun, dyed, printed, and then sewn. This can take a
lot of water. Even organic cotton summer dresses are usually not inexpensive,
costing about EUR60 or more.
Even more alarming is the fact that textile
production involves hazardous chemicals, especially during the wet processing
stage, when threads are formed, dyed, and woven. This step accounts for up to
20% of global wastewater. Fortunately, Greenpeace has taken action on this
issue, and in 2011, they successfully secured commitments from 80 global
fashion brands to phase out the use of hazardous chemicals by the year 2020.
The Swedish retailer H&M recently
donated $1.1 million to five teams working on textile recycling technologies.
The funds will help develop new processes for transforming old cotton clothing
into new fibers. Another team is developing a microbe that will digest
polyester and break it down into basic components that can be reused.
This industry has an enormous impact on the
environment, generating nearly 4 billion metric tons of greenhouse gases a
year, almost eight percent of the total global emissions. However, a number of
brands are trying to innovate and reduce their carbon footprint, improving the
recycling process, and encouraging upcycling. This requires collaboration from
consumers and industry.
Market-based win-win approach to fashion sustainability not working
The global fashion industry remains highly
fragmented and opaque, with poor working conditions in some countries and
widespread environmental and social exploitation. However, a common framework
and joint action by brands and clients can make this industry more sustainable.
The following are examples of the problems that make this approach
unsustainable.
The fashion industry must change its
production and distribution practices. It must phase out the use of toxins and
oil-based microfibers, as well as improve the design and collection of
clothing. It must also improve resource efficiency and use biodegradable
materials. In addition, it must be accountable to consumers by providing
accurate and credible information about the processes used to produce clothes.
Consumers are becoming increasingly aware
of sustainability issues. It is vital that brands engage with them, invest in
convenient solutions and provide transparency to help them make the right
choices. Younger generations expect more from their fashion brands and are
willing to pay more for sustainable goods. In addition, they want to wear their
values on their sleeve.
High-quality, durable items can be resold
and reused. This can lead to higher profit margins per item and broaden the
company's audience. Re-selling is also an opportunity to diversify the fashion
market and increase its sustainability.
